Dakota Fan problem

On Monday morning, just as I was beginning the drive home to Waterloo from Ottawa, about six hours in the sweltering heat, I discovered that the blower in my truck had stopped working properly. Between the time I gave the truck to my friend Jeff to drive for a day, and the time I got it back, something in the fan control broke. Jeff of course denies any wrongdoing, knowledge of, or involvement in this startling development. I think the facts speak for themselves.

Truck: 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab.
Symptom: Fan only works at highest speed setting. In all lower settings, the fan just turns off.

I suffered with the A/C at full blast the whole drive home (better than turning it off), then hit Google to see if anybody else had encountered this. Turns out it is a somewhat common problem. The fan speeds are controlled by a high-power resistor in series with the fan motor. Apparently it is quite common for these resistors to burn out. This problem affects many makes of car, not just Dodge.

Resistor card installationFortunately, the resistors were quite inexpensive at my dealership’s parts department, and very easily replaced. The resistor comes as a module that is bolted into one of the air plenums in the passenger footwell. On the outside is a wiring connector, similar to the connector on halogen headlight bulbs (and similarly difficult to unplug). The resistors themselves are on a card that sticks inside the air plenum, presumably so the resistors will be cooled by the air flow.

Old-style resistor cardThe original appeared to be a card of fibreglass or mica or something, presumably with the resistive elements printed on it, and then painted black. Seemed very cheap to me, I’m not surprised it burned out. When I removed it, it was covered in moisture. And the paint was flaking off in one corner, which probably allowed moisture to seep in to the resistive element and corrode it. Tests with an ohmmeter showed that only two of the five pins appeared to have continuity with each other, the others were all open circuits.

New-style resistor cardThe new resistor card cost me $13. It was somewhat different in design than the original. The replacement is using a ceramic core, with resistance wire wound around it, and dipped in epoxy. This is more like high-power resistors are supposed to be made. On the top is what appears to be a thermal fuse. The new module has continuity with all pins, the resistance to pin 1 from subsequent pins steadily increasing, up to pin 5 which had I think 2 or 3 ohms resistance.

I suspect that the fan speed selector provides power to one of pins 2 through 5, representing speeds from highest to slowest. Pin 1 is then used to supply the motor. Pins 2 through 5 appear to be a 2 or 3 ohm power resistor with multiple taps. The first tap (pin 2) is actually at 0 ohms resistance (pins 1 and 2 are shorted together), giving full voltage to the blower motor.

On the whole, this is actually quite an inefficient motor speed control. At speeds other than off and full-speed, considerable power is wasted as heat in the resistor. A more modern and efficient design would use a switch-mode transistor control. That would allow infinite variation in fan speed, waste less power, and probably last longer too (if implemented properly). It could probably be implemented on a plug-compatible module. That would be an interesting aftermarket part: an infinitely variable fan control. The hard part would be replacing the knob on the console.

345 Responses to “Dakota Fan problem”


  • I was having the same problem on my 2003 durango except I had no fan on any speed. I picked up a resistor and tried to install but was unable to disconsect the connector. in the process I snapped the locking mechanism on the connector. after an hour of trying to disconect I got frustrated and just reconnected. To my surprise it now works on all speeds except high. My question is am I putting my family at risk driving on the highway with this vehicle. Any chance of a fire

  • Blower speeds just dropped out yesterday. 2003 Dakota.

    Thanks for the info, and thanks for leaving it around this long!!!

  • Thanks for the heads up it was easy to do .knowing it was bolted in saved me from breaking the plug.much easier when you can see what your doing.

  • Christopher in Anchorage

    Thanks for this post! It helped me diagnose and fix the problem with my Heating/AC system in my 2001 Dakota Quad Cab that I purchased from a private party two weeks ago. I am the third owner of this beautiful truck. The parts were easy to find at a local NAPA store for just 14.77, and wasn’t even all that difficult to remove! Just a bit annoyed with the removal of the nut behind the passenger foot vent. The OEM part was definitely odd-looking compared to the new part which looked a lot better, looking much more functional than the OEM part.

    • John from New Jersey

      This advice was great,The mirror was the best was able to see everything I was done in 10 minute. Thanks

  • happened to me, no speeds worked. put in the new resister in napa parking lot, everything working fine. price 13.66 tax included…. thank a bunch 🙂

  • Adam, Lake Luzerne,NY

    Thanks for the post! It sure helped me with my problem. 🙂

    • Hi Ken,Yes, I’ll get some code pages put up here and put my front and rear wheel controller code and sctaiehmcs out here in the next couple days.Thanks for coming by the site. By the way, how did you find me?Tim

  • My fan was only working on high (about six weeks ago), so I replaced the resistor as suggested in the forum. THe fan worked properly for about 5 weeks, then stopped working at all speeds. After a couple of days wondering why I decided i may have connected something improperly so i reached under the dash and wiggled the connector on the resistor. To my surprise (and delight) the fan came on and functioned normally again…for about ten minutes. Then it stopped working again. As the very busy person I am (aren’t we all?), i wiggled again, the fan came back to life, and I made a mental note to “look at” the connection and see where it was loose. This went on for four days; fan quits, driver wiggles plug, fan starts. I got very adept at doing this even while driving (not recommended). On day five, shortly after the wiggle, i noticed a “melting plastic” smell filling the cab. Upon reaching down to wiggle yet again I realized the wires to the plug were the source of the smell. They were hot enough to burn me when I touched them. After letting everything cool off, I removed the “new resistor” and it was burned in one pin of the plug, plus the insulation was burned off the wire going to that plug for a half-inch. I though maybe I had gooten a bad resistor so I bought another and plugged it in. When I turned on the fan, the wire started heating up again (it did this in all fan positions). Im at the point now where I’ve puuled the blower motor but want to test it before i shell out $100 to replace it. Anyone have any suggestions? The standard auto parts stores dont have a way of testing the blower motor. It runs fine until the wiring heats up so i don;t know if it’s getting bad and starting to draw too many amps or if there is a wiring problem I need to track down. Thanks for any help!

    • Could be a lose connection of the wires on the heat-up or the motor going out. You could take to a alternator shop and have checked out and or repaired fairly cheap. Or go to a junk yard.

      • Im having the same problem, if you unplug the connector on the resistor and look inside the plug the pin with the fattest wire is melting and not making proper contact. I think the blower motor is pulling too much current and causing this chain reaction of resistor failure and melting pin. If you remove the blower motor and give it a spin you will notice it will stop suddenly, it should coast to a stop, it is my belief that the bushings in the motor are bad.
        I will fix this problem this week by replacing the motor and resistor then sawing off the plastic shell around the resistor pins then cutting off the plug from the wiring harness and soldering the wires directly to the pins.
        Ill post the results after I think its fixed.

        • what was the out come as i have the same problem and have a burnt wire in the plug and the resistor thought it was the motor so i have changed both just a month ago but didnt change the plug end and now it is blown again need help please and thanks

        • how did it work out by soldering the wires direct to the pins

      • Replace the plug that plugs into resistor the plugs melt inside If you look inside it you should see a blackened area. They sell the kit and resistor on amazon together as a package deal for less than 20 bucks. Might want to consider a blower motor also they can get old and drag. They are also on amazon and easy to change all in same area. It takes care of it for a few years anyway.

  • Stumbled on this site while looking to solve the blower problem in hopes there was an easy fix … there was and I thank you for providing it …

    FWIW: Priced the part at Auto Zone and AID Auto … the latter was cheaper by three-four bucks …

    Still trying to iron the kinks in my back from doing the repair, but the sucker works great …

    thanks very much for the advice

  • have same poblem with my 2002 durango replace 4 plugs and resistor going to replace blower motor tomorrow will everyone know how that works thanks for help

  • I cann’t get any info how to wir the plug going into the resisn a 2004 dodge dakota

    • I CAN HELP DID MIME TODAY

      • Jim
        Possibly you can help me. I have the 1998 Dakota extended cab 3.9 motor and I can not locate the resistor. Can you tell me the exact location. Thanks frustrated and looking for help. Emai wobabill@gmail
        Com

        • The resistor on a 1998 dakota is located under the passenger wiper blade fire wall. Remove the plastic grill and using a small mirror to locate resistor on top of opening.

    • In back of the plug, the black cap pops off so you can take that little white piece out, the wire with the plug slides in and snaps into place, then feed the wire through the holes in the white piece then put black cap back on. It took me alittle while to figure it out. It was easy after that. I have had to have this done 4 times, and a blower motor and wiring harness to.

  • Had the same problem with only certain speeds working on my ac in my 01 dakota. Wiggled the wire going to the ac motor resistor and it worked fine but now the black wire closest to the outside of the resistor plug is getting hot. Is it just a bad contact. I replaced the resistor itself but the same problem occurs. I have to wiggle the wire every now and then to get the highest fan setting to work. Kinda seems like i wasted 16 bucks on the resistor. If anyone has figured out what is making the wires hot let me know please. Thanks for the post by the way though. Helped me out alot.

  • My 2001 fan motor DOES NOT have a resistor at the fan motor. The wires go straight in motor housing with plug connector about 3 inches up wire. Was told resistor on firewall in engine compartment… NOT. ANY help appreciated. (tested motor with jumper, fan runs)

    • It’s mounted on an air duct in the passenger footwell. That way, the resistor gets cooled by the flowing air.

    • Lee, I have a 96 Dakota with the same location. On the firewall just behind the evaporator. A bit tough to get to,
      but with a swivel on a socket and medium sized extension you should be able to get it out. Two 5/16 ” tech. screws,
      and mine were stripped. I had to pry it out to get the threads to ingage & back out. Hope this helps.
      Kelly Ann Bishop

  • Roberto , W. Palm Beach

    Heading to Napa for the part,thank you for the info and for saving me from an expensive mechanic or (worse) dealer bill !!!

  • got part from autozone, installed in truck.ran for two minutes started smoking..
    what would cause that..

    • The resistor’s come from the factory with a bit of oil on them, to prevent corrosion and if you don’t clean them with contact cleaner before install. When it heats up, viola’ it smokes & stinks up your truck! Hope this helps.
      Kelly Ann Bishop

  • I own a 2003 dodge dakota quad. Bought it new. I have had to replace the resistor 3 times now!!!! Is there a recall? Is anyone else having problems like this? I just replaced it last November and have to put a new one in now! Getting tired of this! Any input out there?

  • 02 Dakota blower only works on high, headed to NAPA for resistor pack…….thanks for the info.

  • My 01 Dakota blower works fine, the problem I have is that the selector to change it from defrost to foot to face does not work. Is this a vacuum problem or will the same resistor replacement fix the problem?

    • Unlikely to be related. The resistor is just for blower-motor speed control.

      I had a problem once with my mix control valves, where it kept cycling back and forth between foot and face all by itself. As I recall, the dealer fixed it (under warranty) by recalibrating the valves in some way. There’s probably a variable resister in there that feeds the valve position back to the controller.

    • Did you ever fix your problem?

      I have the same issue in my 2004 Dakota.

  • Brad (Winnipeg)

    Thanks for leaving this on so long. I have a similar problem with my Dakota Quad cab (2004). After reading your post I removed the resistor card and found a corroded spot by one of the two raised conductors (U shaped) on the card (visable in your picture). One circiut was open. Thanks again for the great description and pictures. My 2004 parts were identical.

  • Thank you & my Daughter for telling me this web-site….after pulling intire dash out.LOL..

  • I am having the same problems with my 2001 Dakota, replacing the resistor about every 90 days, with a week of wiggling before it completely goes out. Now my entire system has shut down, the blower, compressor, cooling fan. I have already replaced the connector to the resistor. My Dodge tech tells me this is a classic symptom of the blower motor going south. It has probably fried the a/c control panel on the dash. Now I have to figure how to get in to the dash at the controls without tearing anything up.
    By the way, O’reilly’s and AutoZone both cover the blower resistor on a lifetime warranty. Been there and done that many times.

  • It appears that this resitor is a problem for many. I also have a 2001 Dodge Dakota and I have repalced the resistor three times. The last time, I replaced the harness.

    I am suspecting that the problem is the blower and that will be replaced now with a new resistor and hopefully the harness is not too fried.

    Does anyone know if GiGi replied after posting his comment on his fix to the problem?

  • I have had similar problems to all of you. 2003 Dodge Dakota. I as well couldn’t get the connector(plug)off. I cut the wiring close to the plug and removed the resistor with plug still atached. I realized i wasn’t going to disconnect the two without breaking the plug and resistor. Eventually I found that the plastic inside the resitor and plug casing had melted and fused together. I bough a new resistor ($13) and new wiring package ($103) from Dodge. I have now spliced the wires together (with marettes)and connected everything back together. The fan works now, but on all speeds except for the lowest I can hear the resistor making a very loud clicking noise. Is this a dangerous method? Also is there an easy way to pull the individual wires out of the plug to change them out. They seem to be locked in there, maybe there’s a release somewhere.

    • it doesnt do any good , i replaced the resistor , the wire harness , and the blower motor all new and it lasted 2 weeks, just like everyone else , the second pin on the plug burned up and the same pin on the resistor,

  • Thank You!

    2003 Dodge Dakota fan only worked on high.
    Part was $25 here in Canada at Parts Source.

  • Here is what Im doing with mine 2003 Dakota. The whole problem comes from is that the blower motor is junk. It draws so much electricity, it will eventually burn out the resistor. It starts out as one speed stops working at a time and then it all stops. Changing the resistor helps for a while, BUT eventually the resistor and the CONNECTOR, that it goes into the resistor starts to melt, burn. All because of the motor drawing too much power. To permanently solve this is to buy an efficient blower motor. Not hard to put in at all. NOW, if the connector is melted, burnt, get a new one at the same time. I got a wiring kit and a new resistor from Ann Schmidt, Chrysler-Dodge Dealership in Ohio. You can go to Ebay and get the kit for 68.00 plus shipping. ALSO, NAPA is now offering the connector for about 60.00 if you get one from the warehouse or about 74.00 at their regular store. BUT… sorry for the caps….. Call first. I went to the warehouse last Sunday, right after Saturdays snow storm and they said it was not in stock yet. Even though the website said it was. I emailed NAPA and still no response. I then went to Ebay. The only other thing I can say is try not to run the fan at the highest speed or keep it down as soon as you can. Use the lower speeds if you do not get a new blower motor. This should solve the resistor burning out and if your is like mine, it always burns out when I need it the most. I hope this helps out. Bill

    • ok, I’m a girl who has no clue but got sick of paying to keep getting my car fixed. My blower motor stopped, then I would wiggle the wire under the dash of my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4×4 (a trick I learned from my last car), when the truck decided to just work on high then started smelling like something burning I went online and read about blower motors and low and behold it’s a common problem for Dakotas
      I looked up the part on ebay and ordered the resistor for 11.00, laid on my back on the passenger floor with a flashlight and unscrewed the part that looked just like it then realized the wiring harness, a name I have now learned was what smelled and is melted together. I ordered the wiring harness and was told of this blower motor problem by a few people, read about it here and chose to take it all back to my favorite car guru who simply “gave me the look”, laughed and he’ll be installing a new motor and my money saving parts on Friday. I’m stickin to the kitchen.

      • Ha!
        You sound jiust like me. I have done 4 of these replacements in my 2001 Dakota, most recently this weekend. This last time however, I marked in Sharpie the date of my last module blow-out. September 20, 2010. not even 2 years! As others have posted, it is an inexpensive part, 13.99 at my local Dodge dealer. But the contortions you have to go thru as you observed are getting harder and harder on my 50 year old body. And the wire harnes keepers broke off from so many repeat issues. What I want to know is why do these resistors burn up so quickly?

    • 2003 Dakota.. got a new blower same problem.. what did you get?

  • Wondering with these 2003 Dodge dakota what is the current draw on the high speed. I got 18amps on the highest setting of the fam motor. Whats normal for this motor?

  • I new about changing a resistor for only one speed on a fan motor. I went to take apart and found the connector was melted. Doing my research on multiple websites found out the my motor is drawing 18amps. A good one should be no more then 14amps. I live in Canada and I found out that there is a few multiple online parts you can find, amazon and rock auto to name a few that have really cheap and quality parts. I will be changing fan motor, resistor, and connector all for $110. Thanks everyone.

  • this has been good but i have replaced the resistor and still
    only have the high fan speed any sugestions?

  • My fan on my 2002 Dakota started smelling like an electrical burn out on the freeway yesterday. I found your post last night. A few minutes and $18.00 later I have working A/C again! Here in TX, we run A/C almost year around, so I am grateful to you! Thanks!

    Any advice on where to find the plastic window clips for the cable system which raises and lowers 2002 Dakota power windows? I don’t understand why they made those out of plastic. Between the heat down here and a lot of use, 2 of my windows have failed. The clips look like they would not cost much at all individually, but the Dealer will only sell the whole cable assembly at over $200!

    • I bought replacement window regulators at rockauto.com for about 36.00. the factory regulators are junk. regulators were easy to install, hope this helps.

    • I have replaced three out of four regulators on my 2002 Dakota

  • Thanks for the writeup, 30 seconds of googling saved hours of troubleshooting. Carquest carries the replacement part pictured, about $14.

  • Its the blower motor drawing too much power. Replace resistor and blower motor

  • Yes – the resistor is typically the culprit. Especially if you notice that the fan switch works on high but not on the lower settings. This is because on the high setting the blower motor uses the full 12v / 14 amp load direct from the battery. This in effect bypasses the step down circcuitry in the resistor. When you use the lower fan speed settings, the resistors act to step down the current on a progressive scale. Its these seg ments that usually fail. Its a quick swap out – just two retaining hex head screws to remove from the housing. Slide the red retaining clip to ine side, depress the black tab clip and while keeping that depressed pull the resistor off. it will typically be a snug fit so you may have to rock it back and forth a bit to work it loose. Installation is exact reverse. Total time 5-10 minutes.

  • i put a new resistor in 6 or 8 weeks ago and work good, now the fan only works on off,low ,& med. no high…

  • This info was invaluable! Glad I looked here before tearing the dash apart to get to the switch. $10.50 at the local NAPA and it works. For now I should add. After reading alot of the above I suppose I should be ready to do it again…..lol. Thanks again!

  • i had the same problem happen once a year for the last 3 years in the lat 2 years the resistor went but also the wires burned up nothing to be nerves about, just smells up the truck but i need to change the connector also to the resistor but i can play with the wire and get it working again even they are burnt

    does anybody know why it keeps happens

  • I have a 2006 Dakota…my heater fan resistor fuse failed…after 127k and 6 years of use.
    I repaired the resistors blown thermal fuse with solid copper wire…works again…it’s fused upstream anyways.
    Poor design, not only does the resistor create a lot of heat, the ventilation system doesn’t circulate air WITHOUT the fan switched on 24-7, as opposed most vehicles using natural ram air flowing into the cabin with the vehicle’s forward speed. So when you turn the fan to off…the recirc door closes off the outside air…make a selection, except off…this will open the door to the outside…then disconnect the recirculation door actuator plug…this locks the door to use only outside air…so now I get warm airflow without using the fan all the time…
    The resistor gets super hot…when selected the low settings…use highest fan settings to avoid heating the resistor.
    So now I cruise along with nice heat…using outside ram air and fan switched off…saving it for really cold or hot days…when I really need it.
    Hope this helps….works for me…cuts down use of the fan about 80%… Hence no overheated resistor.

  • After 10 years, with my 2004 Dakota my blower just died out this past weekend. Nothing on any settings. I did find another tutorial that was also helpful in removing the tabs around the mounting holes on the [New] resistor card so it will fit flush with the housing.:
    http://www.bobstractorpartscorner.com/dodgefanresistor.htm

    Lots of great info on this blog Ron! Thanks for sharing
    ~Cal

  • Awesome thread. I just changed the resistor in about 10 mins for $13 in Alberta. Worked perfect….but once again after a few mins I don’t get the lowest fan setting? Is it the motor?

    • Hi…i think you have no low because that low wire and connector Is melted and burnt …no contact…damaged…this is at your resistor connector.
      Forget fixing the low setting…it will just burn up again…poor design…at low it’s..too hot at the resistor…..med high and max, doesn’t produce near as much heat as low…So I don’t use low
      Or….rebuild replace the connector with a heavier wire and connector…will last a while?
      difficult to find technicians who can do this…pricy too.
      Inadequate design at the resistor, can’t handle the low setting… Dodge really needed heavier wires and a bigger heat sink at the resistor to make it all work reliably.
      A good mechanic engineer technician can fix this….but you will have to pay…is it worth it?…or just forget using the low setting…
      Hope this helps…heater air con has been pretty good otherwise….

  • I read this article yesterday & went to NAPA auto parts and picked up a new resistor for my 1996 Dakota Pickup. $6.30 installed this morning, now I have low, med high,& high Speeds but no medium low. I’m beginning to think the wiring is bad. Then again, it’s a Dodge Al…

  • I had mine fixed at the garage. $57.00 Not bad it was minus 13 degrees. Quit working in one day. Can not get back into the garage till next week. Should have came to this website first. Went underneath dash found the resistor wiggled the plug fan started right away. May keep a new one in the truck. Thanks for the help everyone. Have not smelled any burning wires yet and my low speed did not work before.

  • I had this happen on a CERTIFIED 2001 Dodge Dakota I bought at Huntington Beach Dodge…I brought in to them the Day after I bought the Truck..and they charged me $65 to replace Resistor…That was like 8 years ago..the resistor just went out again about 2 weeks ago…Info here was good wish I had known more about this a long time ago….Dodge Trucks what a joke…wish I had never bought there..was lied to and overcharged…Never go to HB Dodge on Beach…

  • Chris From Courtice Ontario

    Thanks a Ton!

    glad this was still posted,

    I have a 2004 Dakota Quad Cab. a few weeks ago my blower would not work at all on any speeds for a day or so. it came back on when I went over a bump and was fine until today. found this post and all the reply’s and it was super helpful! I just came in from fixing mine. it seems that the plug was loose some how and half out of the clip (maybe it was kicked)I clicked it back in all the way and my blower fired up right away. I plan to pick up a new part this week just to be safe!

    Thanks again!

    Chris from Courtice
    2004 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4X4

    • I have the same truck and same problems. I gonna check plug in tomorrow and replace resistor If I have to.

  • Kevin from Mt Forest

    I too have had this problm, a few times actually.
    the day i brought it home the heat worked well on all settings and when i shut off truck and went to re start it the heater would not work on any setting.$11 fix from Napa but when i changed controls from defrost to foot/defrost it wouldnt come back on again. Replaced resistor again and has been working fine up until yesterday and it did it again. This will be the third resistor i put in in under a month. obviously there is a bigger problem. Any ideas?

  • Kevin from Mt Forest

    so to clarify this, i went out to change resistor and like someone said above, it had just gotten looses and worked again once i got it connected tightly again. at least i have a spare now!

    and just an fyi, aqnyone putting this in a dakota will need to cut off “tabs” on new resistor to make sure it fits properly.( from experience)

  • John in Texas

    I have 2007 Dakota I bought new, about 4 months ago it started doing the same thing, I could tap the motor and it would work fine for a while then stop working again. Replaced the resistor last week still not working right. Now the blower motor sometimes just barely runs. I had 1997 Ram 3500 that did the same. You would think Dodge engineers could figure out their is a problem. I’m now thinking about buying a toggle switch and wire it to a hot wire off the ignition switch to the blower motor and bypass all the modern unnecessary junk. I have owned Dodge trucks for the last 30 years, will never buy another.

    • Hello, John in Texas, did you install that toggle switch. I am thinking of doing the same thing myself. I have replaced the resistor and the panel to turn it off and on. No dice. I just didnt know how to hook up the toggle switch and after reading yours i was more then curious to see if it worked.
      Scott, in iowa
      here is my emai—> hopin91@gmail.com
      Thank you

  • Jim in Minneapolis

    Like others, I have had this problem over and over on an ’04 Dakota. Replaced the resistors (probably 3 or 4 times). Then the last time it happened the wiring upstream of the resistor module fried/melted and I had to replace that. It has happened again and I’m looking at replacing both again and possibly the blower motor. Before I do that, I came looking for a long-term solution. Anybody figure out how to solve it so it doesn’t just keep happening over and over?

    • I know this is late for you, but I just wanted to tell you that I have a 2003 Dakota and I have had this problem since day one (purchased new). It has been in for repair 10 times now. Sometimes the repair lasts for a few months, once for two years, once for 10 days. I’ve had resisters, wiring harnesses, blower motors, and a whole control panel. They took the whole dash apart and traced every wire, thinking that maybe something was rubbing. I don’t know what else. I’ve had no fan, various speeds working/not working, burning smells, melted wires and probably everything else you can think of. I love my little truck, but I don’t think it will ever be solved. Obviously Dodge knows about this and doesn’t care. Even with parts under warranty, I’ve had to spend over $2000 on repairs. I won’t buy another Dodge. Good luck.

  • hello,
    So i have the issue that the fan doesnt work, other then the heat coming out. I have a 1991 dodge dakota sport. I have replaced the resistor, which is located outside under the where the the windshield wipers are at. on the passenger side. I have replaced the the controls to the fan. No dice. I am thinking of installing a toggle switch on and off. To the fan. So that way i have heat coming out. IF and when you receive this. Can you let me know what i can do to fix this. Or do you know how i can just hook up the toggle switch.
    Thank you.

  • What a complete pain!!! Goodyear wants 89.95 for a resistor which I bought on AMAZON for $7. With free shipping…Goodyear also wanted 149.95 to install it.So this hardworking Mom of 2 fixed it herself at 25.00 Amazon. felt so good turning my 03 durango over with a fan which worked.The low speed didn’t work only 2,3,& 4 but I noticed the second prong on the wire harness is burned out.I ordered that today.The 04 Durango were said to improve the resistors so I read I could use a better modified 04 resistor,is this true? My ac isn’t working either,could the ac panel be burned out as a result from all this resistor crud?I will use fan on no.2 and have open air flow through on warmer days.I will install a new Blower motor as well.My truck is sentimental because my Dad gave it to me when it only had 50,000 mi. On it.He’s passed away but I want to take care of it .It only has 107,000 mi. In 2015!!!
    Learning to be a mechanic in Upstate NY

  • Meant to say I fixed it myself 7.00 part shipped free from Amazon.Socket set worked gr8 on 2 bolts located under the passenger side dash.see youtube for instsllation.Rem. that Durangos are the same as Dakotas.peace out!

  • I have a 04 Dakota with 140K miles. In 2012 the blower resistor was first replaced then every year since.Just had one put in 1 month ago and has failed again. Based on the above problems others have had I have decided to replace blower motor also. Hope this works for a month as truck is sold.

  • Had mine fixed a few year’s ago 05 Dakota SLT 4 door worked fine yesterday ,I get in truck to go to work in ac at all blower will not work it’s 98 degrees n its a white truck too. I hope it’s the resistor ty for input

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